I have to make a dessert for an upcoming event. To make matters more complicated my dessert needs to be French and easily portable. My normal French “go to” desserts of crème brûlée or tarte tatin don’t fit the bill. I have decided on cookies – no standard chocolate chip, oatmeal or peanut butter will do – I need to make French cookies. So I do what I always do when faced with a culinary dilemma, I call Laura Romito. But since she is a bit under the weather, I do the next best thing – especially in matters French – I consult Julia Child. I have the bible – Mastering the Art of French Cooking, vol. 1 & 2, but today I am consulting another favorite – Julia Child: The Way to Cook. If you don’t have this cookbook, I highly recommend it.
I experimented with several types of cookies, much to the delight of my husband – the consummate taster. I think that I have decided on the cookie that Marcel Proust dipped in his tea and made famous in his novel, Remembrance of Things Past. The tasting of this cookie inspires the entire novel. Here’s what he said of this delightful little cookie:
She sent out for one of those short, plump little cakes called petites madeleines, which look as though they had been moulded in the fluted scallop of a pilgrim’s shell. And soon, mechanically, weary after a dull day with the prospect of a depressing morrow, I raised to my lips a spoonful of the tea in which I had soaked a morsel of the cake. No sooner had the warm liquid, and the crumbs with it, touched my palate than a shudder ran through my whole body, and I stopped, intent upon the extraordinary changes that were taking place…at once the vicissitudes of life had become indifferent to me, its disasters innocuous, its brevity illusory…
Okay, I realize that this is a bit much about a little cookie, but made well and with a cup of tea or espresso, this cookie is a winner. It’s not just Proust and me that think so, Starbucks sells a little package of 2 madeleines just next to the gift cards and mints, in every location. You have probably had one. If not, I suggest that you try them or better yet, make them. They are pretty easy.
The only drawback is that you do need a special pan (Sur la Table and Williams Sonoma carry them) to get the lovely scalloped shape. But, you can also use a muffin or mini muffin pan – they won’t look like the traditional madeleines, but they will taste like them. Here’s Julia’s recipe:
2 large eggs gently beaten (in a 2 cup measuring cup)
2/3 cup sugar
1 cup all-purpose flour (plus 1 Tlbs extra for preparing the molds
5 ounces (1 ¼ stick) melted
Pinch of salt
Grated rind of ½ a lemon (some use lime)
A few drops of lemon juice
A few drops of pure vanilla extract (don’t use imitation – in ANYTHING!)
Preheat oven to 375*
Butter and flour Madeleine mould or muffin tin
Beat eggs, sugar in a large bowl (blend).
Add vanilla, zest and salt.
Blend in flour and then slowly add COOLED melted butter in a stream
At this point you are ready to bake. It is best if you cover the batter with plastic wrap directly on the surface and put in the fridge for 1 hour (or up to 3 days).
Spoon about 1 TLB of batter into buttered/floured pan. Cook for about 10-14 minutes or just until golden brown. Dust cookies with powdered sugar.
Make a cup of tea and enjoy!
(Madeleines will keep for a few days in an airtight container.)
As if one cookie wasn’t enough, I also tried Palmiers (Palm Leaves or Elephant Ears) Palmiers are delicious – who doesn’t like puff pastry loaded with butter and sprinkled with sugar. They are not that hard to make, but Julia goes on for about 1 ½ pages about how to fold them just right with diagrams and photos. I soon became annoyed with all the precise folding and discovered that they were not that hard to make if you just fold the open dough to the middle and fold inward.
BASIC PALMIERE
1 package of puff pastry (you can make your own if you are inspired)
1 cup granulated sugar
Pastry brush and water or an egg
Let dough cool so that you can unfold it flat.
From the right and left sides, roll the dough towards the center
Keep rolling until the 2 sides meet.
At this point you might want to put the dough (wrapped in plastic in the fridge for a few minutes to firm it up.
Slice the rolled dough into ¼ inch slices and place on a baking sheet (I would line the baking sheet with a silicone baking pad or parchment paper)
Brush with water (or a beaten egg) and sprinkle with sugar (you can also sprinkle with cinnamon sugar, but I just use plain sugar)
Bake at 375* for about 12 minutes (keep your eye on them)
You can flip them and bake for an additional 3-4 minutes, but it is not necessary.
- If you have little bits of Palmier dough left over you can cut them into small pieces, sprinkle with sugar and bake. Since they are not really cookies, they “don’t count” and have NO calories!!!
If you feel like making origami pastry from scratch with all the silly folds, Julia is your woman!
(HALL OF SHAME – I have been to France many times and have eaten delicious Palmiers, but the best one I ever had was – wait for it – at Disney’s Epcot Center – Paris. I am so ashamed to admit this, but it was really good.)
Fun with Puff Pastry
Nearly anything wrapped in pastry and baked is called “en croute” in French. Doesn’t “en croute” sound better than “in puffed pastry”? It makes whatever you make sound better. God, I love the French!
- Savory version – Since “en croute” makes everything taste better and sound better the possibilities are endless. Next time you have to make an appetizer, don’t make Pesto and cheese in puff pastry, make Palmieres au fromage et pistou!
When you first lay out the dough spread with pesto and crumbled goat cheese (feta or Montrachet), a bit of chopped garlic and perhaps some onions. Then roll up, cut and bake (omit sugar). This is an easy and delicious appetizer.
You can put almost anything in puff pastry and it will taste good! Try sun dried tomatoes, chopped pancetta, tapenade, a few chopped anchovies. When doing appetizers with lots of other ingredients spread on the pastry, you may want to cut them a bit thicker before baking.
Oh my, I have digressed from my French cookies. Sorry about that, I just get going and who knows where I may end up. But isn’t that truly the fun of cooking? I love to experiment and I hope you do too. Be sure to try the savory Palmieres next time you need to wow a crowd! Since I am channeling Julia today... Bon appétit!!
